The Circular Production Model: Sweden’s Approach to Slowing Fast-Fashion

By: Anita Voskovykh

Known for its commitment to sustainability, Sweden has consistently ranked among the top 10 countries globally for exceptional environmental performance for over a decade. Being the first country in the world to pass an environmental protection act in 1967 and host the first ever UN Conference on the Human Environment in 1972, Sweden was a pioneer in sparking conversation related to the treatment and conservation of the environment. Sweden’s environmental success is in large part due to its constant innovation in sustainable technology, particularly in a rather overlooked sector: fashion. With fast-fashion on the rise globally, Sweden has shifted its focus away from the traditional linear production model to a more sustainable and technologically innovative circular production model in efforts to reduce fashion-related waste.

History of Fast-Fashion 

Fast-fashion is low-cost, trendy clothing that is rapidly produced by mass-market retailers in response to constantly changing trends. During the 1980’s, fashion brands began gaining popularity by developing their own brand identities and successful marketing strategies without the ability to manufacture in their own factories. This resulted in a need for and reliance on outsourcing to foreign factories. Fast fashion relies on the exploitation of natural resources and human labor with the goal of producing as many garments as possible in order to keep up with trends. Demand for the quick output of these garments causes strain on the environment due to the amount of raw materials necessary to create them, as well as the associated waste and pollution this process causes. Moreover, the cheap materials used to produce these garments are not designed to last. The short lifespan ultimately contributes to the growing amount of waste in landfills due to the limited wear these garments offer. From start to finish, fast-fashion contributes significantly to the overall degradation to the environment. 

Today, fast-fashion is seen almost everywhere, and with the influence of social media, trends are quickly becoming microtrends. Most of us are likely guilty of purchasing from these fast-fashion retailers. The fashion industry is responsible for contributing roughly 8-10% of global carbon emissions, and billions of garments are discarded or sold off every year due to planned mass production. Moreover, garment manufacturing accounts for 20% of global industrial water pollution. On top of these alarming figures, consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the consequences of fast-fashion and overconsumption. As a result, shifts towards more sustainable alternatives are becoming more common. Increasing sustainability in the fashion sector requires significant changes in consumer behavior as well as industry accountability. 

Sweden’s Shift from Linear to Circulatory Production

The fashion industry currently follows a linear model for production. There are typically three steps involved in this process: 1) taking (harvesting raw materials); 2) producing the garment; and 3) waste (the use and subsequent disposal of the garment). This concept is known as the linear model due to the prioritization of short-term, profitable trends at the expense of the environment and the exploitation of resources and labor. The demand for companies to keep up with the ever changing trends has led to the immense damage to our environment. Thus, new technological innovation is imperative for the overall reduction of waste in this industry. A circular production model may be the potential solution to this growing issue. 

Sweden has become a world leader in the transition from a linear to a circular fast-fashion industry. The circular model aims to grow the lifespan of garments by finding ways to deal with waste at the end of the cycle, such as recycling or reusing the materials. In efforts to eliminate the harmful impacts of fast-fashion, to maximize resource efficiency, and to eliminate waste, several new regulations have been implemented. Among these is the Extended Producer Responsibility (ERP) regulation which shifts accountability to producers to be responsible for minimizing waste by recycling or using other proper measures. The ERP was amended this year to also include licensed textile collections. This amendment is scheduled to roll out over the next several years and aims for at least 90% of textile waste collected to be reused or sent for material recovery by 2028. This regulation will apply to clothes, household textiles, bags, and accessories, and all Swedish households and businesses that produce textile waste will be required to separate textile waste from other waste. Additionally, a government-supported initiative led by the University of Borås in Sweden called Textile & Fashion 2023 aims to test and study different techniques of sustainable fashion settings to find ways to advance small-scale sustainability to the rest of the world.

Aside from government involvement, major Swedish fashion brands are also beginning to implement more circular approaches to their business models. Swedish fashion brands such as H&M, Filippa K, and Houdini Sportswear have implemented ways to expand the life of their garments, such as introducing initiatives where consumers have the option of taking their items in for repairs, renting, and buying second-hand.

Sweden has also developed a strong market for second-hand retail, also known as thrifting. There are second-hand shops located in almost every major shopping center, and thrifting has become a norm. Second-hand shopping reduces carbon emissions, saves resources, and extends the lifespan of garments that would otherwise be wasted. 

The circular business model emphasizes on the “waste” aspect of the aforementioned 3-step linear approach. Despite these positive changes and results, waste only accounts for roughly 3% of the fashion industry’s total carbon footprint whereas production accounts for about 80%. While eliminating waste plays an important role in reducing environmental damage, prioritizing the earlier production stage to target the most environmentally harmful aspect of the process is critical. Technological investments that focus on producing new garments with old materials and material recycling could serve as potential solutions. Some Swedish companies have begun using new technologies for dyeing fabric that reduces the current environmental impact by 95-98% and have also developed computerized models that target production planning at the earlier stages of the overall process.

Conclusion

Technology-based improvements have encouraged the development of more sustainable practices within the fashion industry in Sweden. Further, Sweden’s environmental commitment seen in the fashion industry exemplifies an innovative approach to addressing global waste issues. In transitioning from a linear to a circular production model, Sweden continues to be an example for other nations in the realm of improvements to policies, technology, and corporate responsibility in fashion. As the shift toward a more sustainable fashion sector continues, Sweden's initiatives are a starting point to pave the way for a more sustainable future for fashion.